Louis Vuitton has brought back the Monterey, and this time in ceramic, just like the LV II of 1988. What caught my attention was not only the design but the idea behind it: the same watch can be worn on the wrist, carried as a pocket watch in the leather pouch included in the box, and soon even clipped to a belt loop as a keychain. I tried it in the boutique, fell for it, and went for the black ceramic with the white dial, ref. W0CR11.
A Bit of History
In 1988 Louis Vuitton launched its first wristwatches, designed by Gae Aulenti, the Italian architect best known in France for converting the old Gare d'Orsay railway station into the Musée d'Orsay. There were two models: the LV I in gold and the LV II in ceramic, with a quartz movement, a date and an alarm. The round, lugless case and the crown at 12 o'clock were a clear nod to the pocket watch. "Monterey" was never an official name. Collectors came up with it from the American way of pronouncing the French word montre, and it stuck.
Last year LV revived the gold version. Now it is the turn of the ceramic one, and it comes in two colours: black with a white lacquered dial (W0CR11) and green with a green lacquered dial (W0CR21). You can read more in the Hodinkee introduction, the SJX hands-on and the Swisswatches article.
Official press image: Louis Vuitton
The Unboxing
Louis Vuitton knows how to make an entrance. Under the orange box and the blue ribbon there is a small Monogram trunk, complete with studs, corner protectors and a lock, and the watch rests on a cushion inside. It is an outstanding presentation, and the trunk alone is something you will want to keep on display.
Why Black and White
The green is very good looking, but it is almost monochrome: green case, green dial, green strap. The black ceramic with the white lacquered dial is more versatile, and it has more character. The minute track and the syringe hands are red, the seconds hand is blue, and the black calfskin strap has red stitching that ties everything together. It looks a little like an old railway clock, in a good way.
The case is 37mm and 11mm thick, in polished ceramic with a steel caseback and the crown at 12. Ceramic was a smart choice here: a watch meant to go in and out of a pouch and dangle from a belt would pick up scratches very quickly in steel or gold, and ceramic is extremely hard to scratch. At 37mm it is also discreet, which I like.
One Watch, Three Ways to Wear It
This is what makes the Monterey special. Like the original, there are no lugs. The one-piece strap simply runs through a slot under the case, so you slide the watch off the strap in a second, with no tools and no spring bars.
You then slip the watch into the black leather pouch that comes in the box. It has a ring at the top, and its pointed leather cover closes over the watch, turning the Monterey into a true pocket watch, or a pendant on its lanyard.
The third way is still to come. Louis Vuitton showed the Monterey as a keychain on a belt loop at the fashion show, and that accessory is not available yet but should be released soon. I will definitely be getting one.
Official press image: Louis Vuitton
Official press image: Louis Vuitton
Official press image: Louis Vuitton
The Movement
I know a lot of collectors are not keen on fashion brands making watches. But Louis Vuitton is no longer just a fashion brand in watchmaking. Through La Fabrique du Temps in Geneva it has built real know-how in high horology over the past few years. Where the original LV II had a quartz movement, the new Monterey uses the in-house automatic calibre LFT MA01.02: 4Hz, 45 hours of power reserve, a red gold rotor and colourless sapphire jewels instead of the usual red rubies. The date and alarm of the original are gone, leaving only hours, minutes and seconds, which suits the clean dial.
On the Wrist
At 37mm it wears small and discreet, and the round, lugless case sits very comfortably. The 11mm height is a bit more than it looks, but the domed shape hides it well. The strap is soft and closes with a steel pin buckle.
Final Thoughts
The Monterey Ceramic sits where fashion, high horology and art meet. It takes a 1988 design by one of the great architects of the twentieth century, gives it a serious in-house movement, and rethinks what a wristwatch can be: something you can wear on the wrist, carry in a pocket or hang from your belt. Most re-releases these days are honestly a bit boring. This one is genuinely unique.
Quick Take
- Reference: W0CR11 (black ceramic, white dial), also available as W0CR21 (green)
- Case: Polished ceramic, 37mm, 11mm thick, steel caseback, crown at 12
- Dial: White lacquer, red railway minute track and syringe hands, blue seconds hand
- Movement: LFT MA01.02 automatic by La Fabrique du Temps, 4Hz, 45h power reserve
- Strap: Black calfskin with red stitching, steel pin buckle, slide-through system
- Included: Leather pocket pouch with ring, Monogram presentation trunk (belt-loop keychain coming soon)
- Water resistance: 30m
- Availability: Not limited, Louis Vuitton boutiques only
- Price: EUR 22,900 / USD 22,900
- Vibe: A pocket watch that learned to live on the wrist.